Shiitake-thyme bouchée

The mysteries encapsulated in my brain connectivity determine that I remain disturbingly idle during the few periods along the year when stress drops to bearable levels. And so, every beginning of year I see the days before returning to the inhuman demands of my academic duties passing by at the speed of light, while I linger over thoughts of going back to writing, reading one thousand books that I declared overdue, or trying the recipes that pop-up once in a while. It almost feels like a tradition, in which case should be observed. And, although the recipe I am about to share with you might not be closely followed by the dozens I have tried, since the last post, I can assure you it will be worth it.

I have been thinking about making vol-au-vent for quite some time. But the process is time consuming: cutting all the puff-pastry circles, stack them perfectly together making sure they stick together as well, so they do not separate when baked... It is one of those things that can be set as a personal challenge, unless you go through culinary school, in which case you better know how to do it. Although it is no longer common to see a big shell of puff pastry filled with whatever combination your imagination can hold as the center piece of a dinner party, it is certainly a French classic that involves techniques a chef must master. For this recipe, I bought the shells already made. You can find them in the frozen section of you supermarket. It certainly isn't the same thing as the "real stuff" but... hey, we're home cooks!

These puff-pastry cases can be made in two different sizes: big, which are called vol-au-vent ("fly in the wind"); and small, which are called bouchée ("mouthful"). The small ones are still a sophisticated presence as appetizers to elegant, classic meals. They can also be made in bite-sizes and served at cocktail parties, for example. They are so perfectly light and buttery that you want to stop time and make each bite last forever.

The recipe below derives from the classic bouchée à la Reine. The original recipe combines chicken breast, fresh mushrooms and cream to make the filling. Since I made the bouchées to serve as an appetizer, I left the chicken out and made a lactose free bechamel as the base for my filling. Here is how to do it, for 4 bouchées.

You will need:
- 2 tbs of butter
- 1/2 cup of minced yellow onion
- 2 cups of chopped fresh shiitake (you can use dry, but make sure you rehydrate and wash them very well. You can also use other types of mushroom)
- 1/3 cup of dry white wine
- 1/4 cup of chicken or vegetable stock
- a spring or two of fresh thyme
- salt and pepper

For 2 cups of bechamel:
- 2 tbs of butter
- 3 tbs of flour
- 2 cups of boiling lactose free whole milk (or regular whole milk if no dietary restrictions apply)
- salt

How to:

1. Pre-heat the oven at 425ºF (220ºC)
2. Melt the butter over medium heat. Then, add the onion and cook it until it becomes translucent. Stir frequently.
3. Add the mushrooms, salt, and pepper, and give it a stir. Let the mushrooms cook for 2 or 3 minutes stirring occasionally.
4. Add the wine and thyme. Stir and let the wine reduce. When the liquid has almost evaporated, add the stock, correct seasoning if necessary, cover the pan, and let it cook in low heat for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the mushrooms are very soft.
5. Set aside covered.
6. While making the bechamel, bake the puff-pastry cases.

The bechamel:

1. Melt the butter over low heat.
2. Add the flour and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly.
3. Remove from the heat and add the boiling milk immediately stirring vigorously with a wire whip.
4. Return the pan to the stove and bring the sauce to a boil over high heat. Boil it for 1 minute, stirring constantly.
5. Remove from heat and add salt to taste (I like to add a bit of nutmeg to my bechamel but this is not at all part of the original recipe).

At this point your bouchées should be baked to a beautiful, delicious-golden color. Remove them from the oven and allow them to cool a bit. While they cool, add the mushrooms and their liquid to the bechamel. Combine everything well and taste. Correct seasoning with salt and pepper if necessary.

Remove the "cover" of the baked bouchées and fill each one with the bechamel-mushroom sauce. sprinkle with few leaves of fresh thyme, and serve.



This turned out to be a really good appetizer for a roast lamb main dish. It is earthy but light, and it really sets you up for the rest of the meal. If using the pre-made puff-pastry cases, this is a easy and relatively quick appetizer to prepare that will certainly make an impression at any dinner party.

Happy cooking and bon appétit!





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