Eleven Madison Park Restaurant

Special days call for special celebrations. And which places foodies choose for special celebrations? That's right! Special restaurants!

Yesterday was my husband's birthday and we decided to include on the celebration's program a meal at Eleven Madison Park Restaurant. This restaurant got its 3rd Michelin star in the latest edition of the Michelin Guide and was one of those places under the scope of our curiosity since we started our experiences of fine dinning. And so, we headed there yesterday in the company of our good friend Bebiana.

The space is gorgeous. Simple and classic decoration brings a skyscraper ceilings and enormous windows space into an elegant and comfortable room. The fresh seasonal flowers arrangements make you feel at home and in tune with Nature.

At our arrival, we were greeted by the maître d', who was very warm and considerate. I had the restaurant's cookbook with me because I was planning to surprise my husband and ask if the chef could sign it. I discreetly told him at arrival that I needed to talk with him and he was amazing playing along. While they were shown the table I quickly asked him if the chef would be available for signing the book because it was my husband's birthday and I would like to surprise him. He told me that they would be more than happy to add something special to the menu and that he would take care of everything. What I did not know at that point was that he was Will Guidara, co-owner of the restaurant and co-author of the cookbook. We would love if he had signed the cookbook as well.

The restaurant's menu is one of most curious features of the all concept. The menu is not the detailed list of dishes one is used to find. Their menu is a piece of white paper imprinted with the restaurant's logo with four rows of four ingredients each. Those ingredients change, at least, every season, and the idea is that the costumer gets the surprise effect of a tasting menu with some control of what he will get. We chose to have the 4 dishes experience. The available options were:

CAULIFLOWER      HAMACHI         OCTOPUS       FOIE GRAS

SUNCHOKE             PLANTAIN        COBIA             LOBSTER

CABBAGE                RABBIT             CHICKEN       BEEF

VACHERIN              MILK                  PEAR              CHOCOLATE

Bebiana chose cauliflower, plantain, beef, and chocolate; my husband chose foie gras, lobster, chicken, and chocolate; and I chose octopus, sunchoke, rabbit, and vacherin. And our journey began.

We asked cocktails to start and possibly to keep for the meal because, as we figured from previous experiences, cocktails are the best palate cleaners one can have. I got the Double Dutch (Genever Gin, Dolin de Chambray Blanc Vermouth, Mezcal, Crème de Cacao), my husband  got the Heart of Stone (Haitian Rum, Amontillado Sherry, Apricot Liqueur, Allspice Dram, Cane Syrup, Lemon Juice), and Bebiana got the Prairie Smash (Bourbon, Drambuie, Root Liqueur, Lemon, Mint). They were all very good.

Double Dutch

Heart of Stone

Prairie Smash

The meal started with three amouse bouche and bread. We got a savory version of the quintessential New York City treat black and white cookies. Chef's Humm version consists of a butter and Parmesan cookie with black truffle filling. A genial trick to your brain and a delicious combination.

It was followed by one of the unanimous favorites: Quail Egg over Toasted Brioche and Smoked Apple and Thyme Tea . Quail eggs are a delicacy per se but that tea was the most exquisite tea I have ever had. I am a tea lover so I might be worth of trust on this judging. But if I tell you that my husband cannot stand tea and loved it you might get a hint of how wonderful it was. Smoky at the beginning with a sweet finish, this tea set the bar for the rest of a meal that would not disappoint. It would surprise, though.

Quail Egg over toasted Brioche

Smoked Apple and Thyme Tea

Smoked Sturgeon with Chive Oil arrived to our table a few minutes later. Impressively served in an egg shell, this amouse bouche offered a buttery initial flavor with a velvety texture that ended with an oily almost sweet touch. Really delicious.

Next, we were offered the bread course: three pieces of warm, puffy, crispy bread arrived to the table along with a serving of cow and goat butter, as well as fleur du salt. The goat butter was absolutely amazing. If you like goat cheese your are going to love this butter. As far the bread is concerned, it was another surprise. When we think of bread we do not thing about puffy pastry . This bread was like a savory croissant, good but not memorable...

The first dishes were now arriving to the table. I got Grilled Octopus with Meyer Lemon, Red Onion, Chorizo and Tarragon, my husband got Seared Foie Gras with Apple, Oat Streusel, and Foie Gras Jus, and Bebiana got Cauliflower couscous and Citrus. I chose the octopus because it is one of those ingredients I love and I grew up eating and that I cannot find since I moved to the United States. Therefore, I thought this was the perfect opportunity to feed my craving for it. Even though the dish components worked beautifully together, the octopus was a bit overcooked. It was almost chewy and not as tender as I was expecting. In that aspect, it was a bit disappointing. The cauliflower was genius! Who was going to think of making "couscous" out of cauliflower?! Only Humm apparently, but once you see it it makes perfect sense! The citrus gave a summery that made us remember how good the weather was outside. Brilliant and delicious as well. The foie gras was perfect! Very well seared and one cannot go wrong with the classic combination with apple. The - also classic - pairing with the suggested sauterne - 1998 Chateau Lefaurie-Peyraguy - was wonderful.  

Grilled Octopus with Meyer Lemon, Red Onion, Chorizo and Tarragon

Seared Foie Gras with Apple, Oat Streusel and Foie Gras Jus

Cauliflower Couscous and Citrus

As a second course, we had Roasted Sunchokes with Shaved Horseradish, Mustard Caviar, and Watercress over Watercress Jus; Roasted Plantain with Black Eyed Peas, Ham and Coriander; and Butter Poached Lobster with Leak & Puree, Squid Ink and Black Garlic. The three dishes were wonderfully cooked. The sunchokes' dish was fresh and harmonious; the plantain was worked beautifully with the black eyed peas and the coriander; and the lobster dish was genius in terms of conception because one could feel both the freshness of the sea in the lobster and the warmth of the earth in the leak and, above all, in the black garlic. The lobster dish was like bringing land and sea together in the same dish - a perfect balance of the antipodes. 

Roasted Sunchokes with Shaved Horseradish, Mustard Caviar and Watercress

Roasted Plantain, Black Eyed Peas, Ham and Coriander

Butter Poached Lobster with Leak and puree, Squid Ink and Black Garlic

The meat courses came next. Rabbit wrapped in Bacon with Rice Cookies and a Reduction of Rabbit Sauce; New York Strip with Confit Potatoes, Mushrooms and a Bordelaise Sauce; and Pan Roasted Chicken with Quinoa, Red Cabbage and a Reduction of Chicken and Red Cabbage Sauce. We could not decide about our favorite among these three. They were all perfect. My husband paired the chicken with a 2008 Pinot Noir - François Feuillet, Burgundy.

Rabbit wrapped in bacon, Rice Cookies and Rabbit sauce

New York Strip Beef, Confit Potatoes, Mushrooms and Beef sauce

Pan Roasted Chicken, Quinoa, Red Cabbage and a Chicken and Red Cabbage sauce

The savory part of our meal had come to an end (or so I thought...). Our captain prepared the first sweet flavor that marked the beginning of the end of our lunch - Egg Cream. But this was, again, Chef's Humm version of the Brooklyn highlight. This egg cream consisted of Orange Syrup, Milk, Orange oil and Soda Water. It was delicious! The soda gives it a feeling of spiciness at the beginning but one can, actually, feel the sweetness and a hint of acidity from the orange syrup back in the mouth.

It followed another extra: EMP version of the New York Cheesecake - a playful and tasty trick on textures. 

We were ready for the dessert based on the four element of our list. My husband had his Chocolate, Fleur de Salt and Caramel plate decorated with a charming little candle signaling that that was a special day for him. Lovely! The dessert had the usual combinations of chocolate in different textures (chocolate ganache circles, cocoa nib tuiles with a pinch of fleur de sel, and a chocolate sorbet), caramel ice cream and gel, and sucree tubes and dough crumble to add some crunchy texture to it. It was delicious! But for me the trick was yet to come. I asked for vacherin, a creamy Swiss  (or French) cheese, and I was very curious about what would come out from that. Well, I got Vacherin with marble potatoes, pearl onions and mustard greens. Yes, it was a savory dessert. How surprising was that?! Even though we associate dessert with sweet, it is also true that dessert can be cheese; and that can be turned into something savory. The initial surprise was forgotten by the amazing flavors in the plate. The cheese was super creamy and rich and the potatoes were tender and worked more as a texture element than as a flavor one. When we were finishing our desserts, chef Humm came to our table to see if everything was according to our high expectations. We were more than happy to congratulate him for the extraordinary food he is sending out of his kitchen.

Chocolate, Fleur de Salt and Caramel

Vacherin with marble potatoes, pearl onions and mustard greens

We were starting to think of asking for some Port to finish out meal when, out of nowhere, the maître d' came to our table and invited us to a kitchen tour! We were thrilled!! Mr. Guidara explained to us how everything is coordinated. They have more than 60 people working in that kitchen and all you see is a very smooth and organized team. They are like a Swiss watch - a very well-oiled machine. While in the kitchen table, one of the pastry chefs prepared us a Jack Rose cocktail but, naturally, with a very modern approach. The base of the cocktail remained the applejack or apple brandy but then an apple granite made with liquid nitrogen was incorporated, as well as a shell of pomegranate sorbet also made with liquid nitrogen. It was a smoky, sweet, delicious tour.

The meal ended with a Quinta do Noval 20 year old Tawny Port and the real New York Black and White cookies. The savory version was much more exciting, but this was a beautiful way to end the meal - with the same visuals it started. 

With the check came another sweet present for my husband. These chocolaty bars were buttery and soft with a caramel core that did melt on the top of a crunchy cookie. Stunning! 

It was time to leave. Another beautiful experience had been printed in our minds and in our palates. Eleven Madison Park is an incredible space with an impeccable ambience and a genius food conception that combines the classic and the modern in an harmonious way. In terms of service, though, I think they can improve. Although we were extremely well treated, we felt that our captain was not as attentive as he could be. For example, when my husband wanted to ask for his red wine, he tried to call him (or someone) several times until he was noticed. When the service grow into such a perfect machine as the kitchen, Eleven Madison Park will be the best restaurant in New York! 

Thank you Chef Humm and Mr. Guidara for giving us such a special experience. You did make it nice for us. :)

Eleven Madison Park Restaurant
11 Madison Avenue  Manhattan, NYC

http://www.elevenmadisonpark.com/